![]() ![]() Has a CD player, radio, etc, been added to the dash? If so, did the installer know exactly the correct wires to connect to under the dash, or, was “just any” hot wire used for power? If it was, that could be your problem with getting trouble codes from the engine computer.Whether you do a complete tune-up or only change the spark plugs, spark plug wires (also known as ignition cables) should always be checked first. When you turn the ignition key on, does the check engine light come on for a few seconds and then go off? If it doesn’t, there is something wrong with the engine computer wiring, or the engine computer. There should be trouble codes coming from the engine computer. ![]() To ensure there isn’t a ground problem between the engine block and the car body to battery negative, clamp a wire to the engine block and the negative post of the battery. Did some one pierce them with a test probe? Are yours bound together? Do they run, parallel, nearly touching? Quality spark plugs wires shouldn’t arc to ground. Spark plug wires which are too close together can INDUCE spark in each other. To best see any sparks, run the engine in a dark place and watch the spark plug wires and the ignition coil. How can you tell the spark plug wires are arcing between the wires and the engine block? Can you see, or hear, the sparks? Click on that and it will give you a long laundry list of vehicles a part could be pirated from. On the pic of the part note the “See all vehicles this part fits” notation. Note it’s a ho-hum old Ford coil and with a little scrounging you may be able to dig one up for a little or nothing. The one in the distributor is probably not the culprit. This may or may not give you the whole story as heat is often what causes the problem and the heat can vary of course. The only static test you can do on the ignition coil is performing a few resistance checks with a VOM. (Memory here, it’s been a long time.) However, do not leave them like this as they will have a tendency to foul easier. 001 the gap is closed it drops the voltage the coil is required to put out by about a 1000KV. The symptoms you have can be indicative of a failing coil and the idea of closing the plug gaps up is not really stupid. #See spark in the dark from coil pack on 99 silverado freeHave any codes been pulled yet? AutoZone will do this free and there could be something lurking in there. Due to the inconvenience and the extremely high costs, which are hard to justify right now, I ask this board for advice.ĭoes this all lead to a bad coil, which in-turn means a new distributor? Is anything obvious being overlooked?Īny and all comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. The mechanics I was with today recommend I take the car to the Ford dealer for diagnosis. Is there any chance there is a warrenty on this distributor that they might have a record of? I have the records of this as it was done before I purchased the car. The distributor is a common problem on this engine and this was was replaced about 10,000 miles ago. The cap and rotor was inspected, but not replaced. There are no codes being set, the new plugs (NGK’s) were replaced with another set for testing, and yet another new set of plugs were tried. It can be heard elsewhere, but not spotted. ![]() It is happening between the wires and the block. There is very noticable arcing happening. Multiple mechanics at a trusted shop near me isn’t are not sure where to go next. It has gotten so bad, the car has shut off on numerous occasions. I replaced the spark plugs as well as the spark plug wires. It happens when idling, it happens when accelerating, and it happens while cruising. Originally it was very rare, but now it happens every 20 seconds or so at best. The engine misses/misfires/stutters when… Well, when its on. I’ll spare you the long story and tell you all exactly where I am at right now, but I would be more than happy to clarify and answer questions. I’ve got a 1996 Ford Probe GT with the Mazda/Ford 2.5 liter V6. ![]()
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